Whiling away the hours..

Swine flu meant I had a whole long week of nothingness to fill and without the internet I think I'd have gone stir crazy!!! What did we do before t'internet?..or did we just not get ill!!

In view of my plan to climb Mont Blanc next summer I spent a wee while trawling web-sites for info on alpine climbing and came across a few interesting articles and video's including the one below. Ueli Steck is somewhat of a legend in speed soloing, not just climbing by himself, often without protection, but doing it bloody fast! In 2008 he set the record for climbing the north face of the Eiger in 2hr47min and then followed it with the Grand Jorasses North Face, some 1200m ascent including a 95-degree ice-wall in 2hr21min. This guy climbs quicker than I can get up the stairs (well, actually getting of the sofa was a major effort last week).

More info and some great photo's can be found on the Alpine Exposures web-site.

I think I need to get fit!!

The weekend that wasn't...what a swine!!

It was all planned as I headed up the M6 on Thurday afternoon. After picking up my nephew at Charnock Richard services, another 90 minute drive saw us into Ambleside for last minute provisions, before heading for Great Langdale camp-site.

I'd been feeling a little ropey over the past few days - a bit of a sore throat and a few snuffles, typical of a brewing cold. We pitched up the Tadpole at the NT campsite and after sorting our stuff headed over to the Stickle Gill Barn for dinner. The weather was overcast and though the forecast didnt look great, I was still hopeful. Retiring to the tent I proceeded to have a terrible night's sleep... hot then cold, searing headache, streaming nose and little actual sleep. At breakfast I really wasnt feeling well, so we decided that rather than the planned wildcamp, we'd leave the tent at the camp-site, go for a day walk and see how I felt.

The weather was OK as we headed along into Mickleden valley along the Cumbria Way to where the path splits; right to Stake Pass and left heading up the eastern flanks of Bowfell to the col between it and Rossett Pike, our planned route up to Angle Tarn and Esk Hause. It had been a struggle even walking along the floor of the valley and I realised then I just didn't have the energy to start heading up, so with regret we headed back to camp and packed our gear.

Looking up Mickleden to Rossett Pike

A prolonged five-hour journey on a Friday afternoon saw us arrive at my parents house, where an early night was followed by the whole of Saturday and most of Sunday in bed with flu. Following the NHS Swine-Flu Questionnaire I was afforded an on-line prescription of Tamiflu - a little late I suspect!!

Looks like the Lakes had other ideas this weekend, as Robin over at blogpackinglight also had his trip cut short. Best laid plans and all that......!!!

Landscape Photographer of the Year Award 2009

If you haven't already seen these on the BBC web-site then they are well worth a look. Click here

The winner is Emmanuel Coupe's photo of sunrise over the Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye. Stunning!!

Autumnal Blues?

I've been bereft of hill time over past couple of months and so it's been a little quiet here. Whilst I've been working hard I have tried to keep an eye on others blogs - its always great to read of others adventures to keep the flame burning. And on the health-front my latest blood test came back normal so my visit to the Royal Marsden this week should be a formality.

Its a funny time of the year as summer has faded and yet winter seems just around the corner, with the first frost apparent this week. It feels as if we're getting ready to hunker down for winter, the cold nights drawing in, the dark mornings, hearty stews displacing the summer salads, fleeces and scarves making a re-appearance, leaf-blowing replacing lawn-cutting.....! I love the colours, but unlike Spring, Autumn always feels more like an end, rather than a beginning! Maybe I'm suffering the autumnal blues!?!

As an antidote, I do have a weekend trip planned with my nephew at the end of October, with North Wales again the likely destination. A wild-camp is doubtful as my nephew wants to do some scrambling so we'll leave the weight behind, though still probably still camp - Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite by Tryfan will likely get the vote as a base. I'm keen to test my Minim 300 sleeping bag's limits - actually the bag is probably fine so perhaps I'm testing my own limits as I do seem to sleep colder than I thought!!

As a (poor) substitute for being out in the mountains I have been starting to put together a kit list for both winter and my planned Mont Blanc trip next year. I've also been loosely sketching out a few trips next year as a build up to MB in the summer. The winter-skills course we did in January really whetted my appetite so I'm going to make a concerted effort to make the most of winter this year and as a result my (Christmas?) kit wish-list is ever-growing....!!

And having decided, finally, to go for a Laser Competition tent, the pending winter and a plethora of new lightweight tents about to come onto the market has forced me to defer yet again. The updated Scarp 1 that Martin has details on over at SummitandValley is attracting a lot of interest.

Lastly, I must apologise for the shameless plug in the form of our ski-chalet in Bansko available for rent - click on the pic opposite for more info!! Having just been stung for the years maintenance and service charges, as well as a council tax bill, I need a bit of rental income to cover the bills!!! Although the skiing is not the most extensive, Bansko is relatively cheap, good fun and the Pirin Mountain range is quite spectacular and well worth a visit even in the Summer. There, plug over!!

Ok, back to my duvet and a cuppa tea.....!

Kit Update

I thought it was time to comment on recent kit purchases now they've seen a few outings and I am (or was) on a plane with a few hours to spare - though typing on the iPhone keyboard generally involves 3 keys forward and 2 back!!

Thermarest NeoAir mattress:

A revelation in both comfort and packed size. Comfort is vastly better than my old Prolite3 and it packs to about half the size, though the Neo is a little on the narrow side. I opted for the medium size which in hindsight is probably a bit small. The depth of the mat means I have my pillow actually on the mat (else its too low) which shifts me down the mat, leaving my feet off the end. The medium only saves 40g so with hindsight I ought to have bought a standard size, which add six inches.

PHD Minim 300 Sleeping Bag:

Bought in the PHD sale the Minim is only 570g and packs small. I opted for the Drishell waterproof fabric and had a short zip added, which aids entry/exit but is not really long enough to aid ventilation. I've used a few times during the summer, including a night when there was frost on the tent. I probably sleep a little cold so I'd say the Minim 300 is a late spring till early autumn bag, which could extended with the odd layer of clothes if needed. The distribution of down seems well placed with a higher concentration in the foot.

Optimus Terra Weekender pot set:

Good quality, useful size for two as you can boil amount if water needed for 2 dehydrated meals (but you'd have to boil again for tea!). I was already thinking about buying the smaller version for solo trips when I forgot to keep an eye on breakfast and welded porridge to the base of the pan, a fate from which it was never to recover..... and oven cleaner made it worse. That was the excuse I needed to buy.....

MSR Titan titanium pot/kettle:

£43 seemed a little expensive but I got it for £29 from TheOutdoorShop. Its a work of art crafted in titanium - light, good size for one (or 2 cups of tea), not too tall so quite stable, a lid that stays on and an insulated lid handle whose design includes a little notch to allow it to stay vertical when required, so you don't burn your fingers. No volume graduations (which I intend to address with a judicious scratch or two or a permanent marker pen) and no insulation on the handles, which I've already solved by taking the insulation from the retired Terra pot handles and sliding onto the Titan handles. I also picked up a Primus windshield - a far more elegant solution than my old thick foil sheet, if a few grams heavier.

OMM Villiain 45 MSC

I've mentioned before that I've never quite clicked with the Villain and I can't quite work out why. Love the size, design, features and ethos but it just doesn't seem as stable on the hips as it should be when loaded. However tight the hipbelt is pulled the pack seems a little unstable. Not sure if it's the lumbar-pad which being removable offers potential for some movement, or could be that the back length is too long for me. Haven't heard similar comments about it but its a salutary lesson that fit is the number one priority for a rucksack, and in particular, fit when loaded. I'll probably persevere for a while and keep an eye out for an alternative.

My experience reinforces the fact that kit is a very personal affair and its only from using/abusing and experience do you find out what works and doesn't work for you. As ever most kit is a compromise - a best-fit for a purpose, and if that purpose suits what what you do and how you use it then you'll get on well. As plenty before have reminded us, its not all about the kit - don't forget to get out into the mountains and enjoy!!!...and if the kit helps with that enjoyment just a little bit more then all the better!

Bochlwyd Horsehoe......Bristly Ridge at last!!

The trudge up north on a Friday evening is never much fun and we finally arrived at Betws-y-Coed around 9.30pm, grabbed a bite to eat then headed further along the A5 to the trusty Dolgam campsite, pitching in the dark and in the rain. The forecast for Saturday was much better. With no wildcamp scheduled, the plan was for some unencumbered scrambling, with Bristly Ridge the objective.

After a quick breakfast in Pinnacle Cafe (of miserable staff fame!!) we set off towards Milestone Buttress at the base of Tryfan and headed left toward the north ridge. It was fairly busy as befits a summer weekend but my last outing had given me more confidence to try the not so obvious lines and make it more interesting.

For the second time I scaled the Cannon Stone only for camera gremlins to deny the proof - thats Michelle in the pic above, not me! The rest of the north face was largely uneventful apart with no real difficulties apart from my shoulder playing up again. Lunch at the summit of Tryfan is never a solitary affair, more like Clapham Junction at rush-hour.

Descending to the south summit you had a great view of Bristly Ridge directly ahead. I stopped a few times to see if I could see the obvious line of the starting gully. Down to Bwylch Tryfan we then followed the wall up towards the base of Bristly Ridge and were joined by another couple who proudly anounced they had 'done' Bristly Ridge 26 years ago! The first gully, blocked by fallen boulders was easily scaled on the right, then a quick move right brought us to a more imposing looking gully (I'm not sure but it may be called Sinister Gully?). The older couple duly pulled out helmets of their packs and suddenly looked rather well-prepared!

We were comforted(?) that we were in the correct gully when another party joined us......either that or they had made the cardinal sin of following people who didn't know where they were going!! Looking up the gully it was pretty vertical but soon appeared to ease-off and as ever in the Glyders a comforting handhold/foothold was only a stretch away.

Keeping near the ridge the scrambling was cleaner than Tryfan, with a greater feeling of exposure coming with an ever-narrowing ridge. The pinnacles added interest with the first pinnacle was flanked to the right. We had to chuckle when looking back when the leader of the following party was scrambling directly up the pinnacle. 'Yes, it's ok...yes..yes..............noooooo!" he declared as he popped his head over the lip, peered down into gap and hastily retreated.

Great Pinnacle Gap (seen as the obvious notch in the right-hand ridge line in the photo's below) was fairly obvious when reached and I could now see first hand the view that I'd only previous seen from afar. A nervy down-climb to the left was easier than it first seemed, followed by a shuffle down directly into the gap. The main pinnacle was flanked to the right and we then ascended a steep gully leading back up onto the ridge. Thereafter the scrambling was pretty non-stop till the ridge joined Glyder Fach summit.

With new-found confidence I tackled Castell y Gwynant head-on and climbed directly up and over the pinnacles, before we headed over towards the top of Y Gribin ridge, the usual descent route of the Bochlywd Horseshoe route. Todays descent of Y Gribin was a little less precarious than the last time, which was during Winter Skills training in January, when the combination of snow/ice/crampons/rope/darkness all added to the fun!

The route did offer a great profile view of our mornings ascent but I was disappointed to find the route being more loose rock and scree, rather than scrambling and with sore knee's it turned into a real trudge on the descent to Llyn Bochlwlyd from where we headed north back down to the A5. Bristly Ridge done - a great day out and a real-sense of achievement!

Mont Blanc

A goal, an objective...it always helps focus the mind. I've had Mont Blanc on my mind since a 'boys' snowboarding weekend in Chamonix in Feb 2006, which is remembered for three reasons:-

1. The might and presence of Mont Blanc itself, which left an indelible imprint on my mind
2. My first helicopter ride after a heavy snowboarding fall led to me being airlifted off the mountain to Chamonix hospital
3. Arriving home to a letter confirming my recent check-up had confirmed my cancer had returned.

There's been lots of water under the bridge (I couldn't think of a mountain metaphor!) since then but presently back to full health and getting back into the mountains mean I feel able to realistically set myself the goal of climbing Mont Blanc next summer. I know if it were a mere tick-list item I could probably go for broke and try for it this summer but half of the fun is in the planning and preparation. I realise technically the Gouter Route up MB is not that difficult, but I enjoy learning new skills so its a good excuse for more scrambling, more winter skills/experience, perhaps a bit of rock-climbing and perhaps a trip to the Alps early next summer in advance of going for MB later in the summer.

Climbing Kilimanjaro gave me some idea of the effects of altitude, though there was little aclimatisation built into the the Kili trip and I hardly trained for it. Fitness and stamina, particularly hill-fitness, will be important for MB, so there's no substitute for getting out into the mountains. Some longer wildcamps with a heavy pack would perhaps be ideal training!! It's also a good excuse for looking at new gear - as if I need one!!

So, in fact, just setting the goal ticks lots of boxes well in advance of actually summitting!!